…My little one must have known because last week she had her first go at ‘poop painting’ while we were in the car on the freeway aghhhhhh!!!

Needless to say I found the motivation to make a new cover and here are the results:

Here is the finished project

This actually looks a lot more impressive than it really is, this is a pretty easy project, although a little fiddly in parts, and don’t worry, there is no quilting involved:)

What you will need:

• Your old car seat cover
• New fabric (pre-quilted) approx 1 m
• Binding of some sort (I used fold over elastic but bias binding would work too)
• Elastic (if you are not using fold over elastic for your binding)
• Fabric marker
• Scissors
• Thread
• Sewing machine (and a serger/overlocker is optional but makes it a lot easier)

Before you start, note that your car seat is going to be out of action for the duration of this project so make sure you have plenty of time to finish it before you need to go anywhere, or a spare car seat

This is the fabric I used for this project – It is a pre quilted fabric with a different colour of cotton fabric on each side. I got this from the quilting section of my local spotlight store.

Double sided quilted fabric

Get started by removing your car seat cover and cutting it apart exactly on the seams (there are a number of different ways to make a pattern without cutting your old cover apart, but cutting it up is by far the easiest and fastest, and my cover had reached the end of it’s useful life) .

As my cover was symmetrical (as I imagine yours is), I cut one side apart to make my pattern pieces and left the other side together to remind me how the pieces went together.

Lay your pattern pieces out on your new fabric and draw around them with a fabric marker adding enough for a seam allowance. If you are using a serger/overlocker you only need to leave about 6mm, if you are using a sewing machine you may need to leave a little more. Cut your pattern pieces out.

Lay your pattern pieces out and trace around them - remember to cut 2 of each of the side pieces

Pattern Pieces cut from new fabric - I swapped the colour on some pieces to add interest

The next bit is the fiddly bit, but it is not too bad if you take your time.

The centre piece of your pattern, you will notice, has lots of little slits and holes for the seat belts to come through. With your old car seat cover piece on top of your new fabric simply trace around all the holes and slits. Next carefully cut the holes and slits in the new fabric.

Next use your binding to bind the cut edges of the holes and slits. Fold the end of the binding to the back and sew it down to finish each one. I found it easiest to cut the binding to the right length and pin it in place before beginning to sew each one.

This is how mine ended up looking:

Seat belt hole bindings

A closer view of the seatbelt hole bindings

As you can see they are not the prettiest, and I am sure there is a better way to do this bit, but this worked and will stand up to vigorous wear and washing.

The next thing to do is overlock/sew the rest of the pieces together.

I started with the individual arm covers and then sewed each arm cover to the centre bit – see pics below:

Sew side panels together

sew side panels to outside panels and then sew the sides to the centre panel

Remember when you get to the bit where the back rest turns to the seat you need to leave a gap in the seam for the sides of the seat belts to come through. I just overlocked the raw edges here but you could bind them if you wanted.

Finally sew binding around the entire outer edge of the cover. If you are using fold over elastic, stretch the elastic a little at the top at the back and on the sides so that the cover fits snuggly over the arms. If you are not using fold over elastic you will need to add a piece of elastic to these areas either before or after you add the binding. Add it along the inside edge stretching as you sew and using a zigzag stitch.

areas to add the elastic

And there you have it – new car seat cover!

Here is the finished project

Just a quick note, by way of a disclaimer, I am not a safety expert and you should check with the manufacturer of your car seat to see if doing something like this would void your warranty. perhaps in this case you could make something to go over your existing cover

Baby shoes Mk 2 - the finished product

A little while ago I posted a pattern and instructions for some cute, but time consuming baby shoes. I mentioned at the time, that I had come up with a less time consuming method, well I have finally got around to writing the post. Better late than never I suppose.

These little shoes have fabric soles and use the same pattern as Baby Shoes Mk 1, you can check out that post here and find the free pattern here.

As before, you will need:

• Pattern (this pattern is a size 4, but you can use your printer to shrink/enlarge it to suit, make it so that the sole piece is about 2cm longer than your babies foot)
• Fabric scraps – contrasting colours for the outside and something softer for the lining
• thread (I just used white for everything)
• About 10cm of elastic for the straps
• Scissors, sewing machine, needle (for hand sewing)

Baby Shoe cut pattern pieces

2. Follow steps 2 through 7 of my original baby or toddler shoe post here. You should then have something that looks like this:

Part finished Baby toddler shoes

NOTE: I used a zig-zag stitch when sewing the contrast fabric(denim) to the shoe upper to stop the fabric from fraying. if your contrast fabric is a knit or felt fabric you can just use a regular straight stitch here.

3.  Next pin the sole lining in place, and stitch a small section (around 3cm) on one side as shown in the following pics:

Pin the sole lining in place

Stitch a small section of the sole lining to the upper

4. Place the sole fabric on top of the upper with the outside(the side of the fabric that you want to be able to see in the end) facing inwards towards the shoe upper. Pin the sole fabric in place.

The sole fabric pinned in place

5. Sew around the shoe, leaving open the one small section where you have already sewn the lining to the upper.

Sole sewn to shoe upper

6. Now turn the shoe right way out through the small opening you have left, and you should have something that looks like this:

Baby shoe turned right way out

7. Finally you just need to slip stitch the small opening closed and your shoes are finished – very minimal hand sewing involved.

Baby shoes Mk 2 - the finished product

Baby or toddler shoes - the finished product

So…

Are you a sewing nerd like me?

I found myself today, standing in front of the baby shoe section at the shops, there was a pair in my daughters size, they were perfectly presentable, and they were on special for $6.75. Instead of buying them however,I decided to spend the only available ‘baby sleeping time’ today making some instead.

What can I say, I am a sewing nerd, I have no logical justification for making these shoes, and I have no excuses that you can use either, but if you would like to have a go, the pattern is here and the instructions are below

Bits and pieces I started with

You will need:

• Pattern (this pattern is a size 4, but you can use your printer to shrink/enlarge it to suit, make it so that the sole piece is about 2cm longer than your babies foot)
• Fabric scraps – contrasting colours for the outside and something softer for the lining
• thread (I just used white for everything)
• Fold over elastic, or Bias binding (long enough to go around both shoes)
• About 10cm of elastic for the straps
• Scissors, sewing machine, needle (for hand sewing)

Baby or toddler shoe cut pattern pieces

2. Sew the contrast part onto the shoe upper using a straight stitch – use a knit or felt fabric for the contrast piece so that no hemming is required and you just have to sew it on flat.

Attach contrast fabric to shoe upper

3. Put the upper lining piece and the upper piece right sides together then sew around the inside curve with a 0.5 mm seam allowance.

Attach the lining piece to the shoe upper

4. Open up the seam you have just sewn and place the heel portion of the upper together, right sides facing, and sew the lining and upper fabrics at the heel seam as shown in the pic:

Sew the lining and upper fabrics at the heel seam

5. Turn the shoe out, wrong sides facing and stitch around the shoe opening around 1cm from the seam (stitch along the seam you already made sewing the contrast fabric onto the shoe upper).

Top stitch the shoe opening

6. Pin and sew the darts in the front of the shoe marked on the pattern. (If you haven’t done this before, it’s easy, just fold along the centre line of the dart, wrong side out, and sew down the dart line through all layers of fabric)

Pin the darts in the front of the shoe

Sew the darts in the front of the shoe

7. Pin the elastic pieces to the shoe upper and sew them in place (you can adjust the positioning and length of these to suit your childs foot)

Pin and sew the elastic to the inside of the shoe upper

8. Pin both layers of the sole to the upper, making sure they line up correctly, and sew through all layers of fabric 0.5 to 1cm from the edge.

Pin the sole to the upper

Sew the sole to the shoe upper

9. Trim the excess fabric close to the seam, and then cover the seam, by hand stitching the fold over elastic or bias binding to the side and sole of the shoe.

Hand sew the binding around the base of the shoe

And there you have it, baby or toddler shoes.

Baby or toddler shoe in action

AFTERTHOUGHT: Since making these, I have realised a much easier (read: no hand sewing involved) way to finish the soles.

1. Sandwich the finished shoe upper between the two sole pieces, making sure the lining piece is on the bottom, wrong sides facing out.
2. Sew most of the way around the sole leaving a small space for turning out.
3. Turn the shoe out and slip stitch the small hole closed.

If this is a bit hard to follow, as I imagine it is, don’t worry I shall post some pics and more detailed instructions shortly.

Charlie modelling her baby leggings

I was so impressed with results of my Baby Legwarmers in 5 minutes for $3.50 project that I got to thinking about all those lovely stripy and patterned socks and how stretchy and forgiving they were to sew.

I came up with a crazy idea, and what do you know …

…It worked!

So here it is …

5 minute Baby and Toddler Leggings

This project is very easy and takes about 5 minutes to make. You will need one pair of adult knee high socks and some 6mm elastic (I used clear swimwear elastic but I am absolutely sure that standard braided elastic would work just perfectly).

There was a sale on socks so I got a few different sorts to test out - This lot (8 pairs) cost just over $15

Step 1:  Pick a pair of socks and cut the toe section off as shown

Cut the toe section off your chosen socks(both of them)

Step 2: Cut along the centre sole of the sock (where it is folded) from where you have cut the toe off to the centre of the heal section as shown.

Cut straight down the sole of the socks (again, both of them)

Step 3: Turn one sock inside out then insert the other sock (the one that is still right side out) inside the first sock and line up the cut edges as shown in the picture

Put one sock inside the other and line up the cut edges

Step 4: Sew (using a zigzag stitch) or overlock around the seam that will become the crotch seam – leave the top (where you cut the toe off) open. Then you should have something that looks like the pic below.

Sew the crotch seam

Step 5: Sew (using a zigzag stitch) or overlock your elastic to the inside upper edge of your leggings (the open edge)

Gently stretch the elastic as you sew it on, no a lot, just enough to counteract the sewing machine stretching your fabric out as you sew.

Note: If you are using your overlocker for this part, make sure that the cutting blade is disabled and that you have adjusted the differential feed so that the stitching will still allow the fabric to stretch right out after you have finished. On my overlocker a setting of 1 is considered standard and I used a setting of 0.75. You need to remember to stretch your elastic gently as well, as mentioned above.

Sew your elastic to the upper edge while gently stretching

Step 6: Fold the the edge with the elastic sewn to it to the inside and zig zag around the edge. This will create a neat and finished edge as shown.

Fold the elastic in and zig zag the top edge

The finished top edge

Now you are finished – One pair of baby leggings in 5 minutes (you will notice in the picture below that the top is a bit wobbly – this is what happens if you don’t stretch your elastic enough. it doesn’t really matter because they are still snug when they are on bubs)

The finished leggings

One thing I did think is that these would probably not fit that well over a cloth nappy, so I tried some using mens size 11-13 dress and sports socks – these give more room in the top part although the legs are shorter – more like 7/8 leggings. Check out the results below

Mens dress sock leggings

Mens sports socks leggings

...and that is the end of the story

Baby leg warmers in action

I have been wanting to get some leg warmers for our little one. We are doing a little toilet training, and getting all those winter layers on and off every time she needs to use the potty is a little tiresome.

Leg warmers are fab, one less thing to take off, and she doesn’t get so cold sitting on the potty. But at around $15 per pair…

…well like I tell my husband, It’s not that I don’t have it, I would just rather spend it on a Caribbean holiday:)

So…

When I saw the idea for these baby leg warmers on Cut Sew Repeat (which is a really cool sewing blog) I couldn’t help but try them out.

The tutorial is ace, and has lots of pictures. The best thing is, these only took me 5 minutes per pair to make, and the raw materials (some ladies knee high socks) were on special at Target, and cost only $3.50 per pair!

BEFORE - A pile of ladies knee high socks purchased on sale

AFTER (5 mins after) - Baby Leg Warmers

The only thing I did differently to the tutorial, was to use my overlocker to join the cuffs on, that way I could adjust the differential feed to deal with the stretch of the fabric. However, as you can plainly see from the Cut Sew Repeat tutorial, this is not really necessary, I am just a bit of a perfectionist about these things

My only other thing to add (as this post is more ‘show and tell’ than it is ‘instructions’) is an idea:

If you are wanting to make some little knee pads for your crawler, I think some regular length ladies socks treated the same way would work a treat, and would be cooler in summer.

If you are after baby leg warmers, even if you are new to sewing, give this project a go. I think you will be pleased with the results.

Ninja style up-cycled tracksuit in action

So, I mentioned in my post Super quick and easy up-cycled toddler tracksuit that I had salvaged more than one tracksuit top from my husbands charity bag, well this little number is the results of my second toddler tracksuit transformation.

This project is much the same as the other one but with a few alterations worth mentioning as they will mean you will be able to use a larger variety of different tops to start with.

This is the top I started with this time:

What dads jumper used to look like

I started out in much the same way as last time with cutting out, but found that using the pattern for Size 1 tracksuit from a man’s tracksuit top the pattern piece for the tracksuit pants was to wide to fit into the sleeve of this slimmer fitting tracksuit top.  So, I have devised a pattern to use with slimmer tops like this.

This is where the Ninja part comes in – the crotch part of the pants is a separate pattern piece, like it is in martial arts uniforms and I thought ‘Ninja style’ rolled off the tongue a little better than ‘Martial Arts style’. If you don’t know what I mean here, don’t worry it will soon become clear.

First things first then – cutting out

Using the Size 1 tracksuit from a man’s tracksuit top pattern, cut out the body of the top from the upper portion of the man’s top. If your top has a zip like this one make sure the zip is done up, as you will be cutting through the zip and sewing it into the bottom seam later – if it is undone this will not work.

Then cut the waistband off the man’s top along the seam and cut it to a length just shorter than the bottom of the childs to you have just cut.

Lastly (for the top) cut 2 strips of fabric 3cm wide and long enough to go around the armholes of the childs top with some to spare  (I just cut them from the width of the back of the mans top at the botttom)

This is what all the pieces for the top will look like:

Cut pieces for toddlers tracksuit top/vest

Next use the Ninja Tracksuit pants pattern to cut the main part for the pants, as shown below. You will notice that they are pretty much straight up and down, so should fit on pretty much any tracksuit top.

Cut the main pants pattern piece from the sleeves - you will notice that it is pretty much straight up and down

Next cut the crotch portion of the pattern from a spare piece of the man’s top, as you are not cutting sleeves there should be plenty to spare. I cut the crotch piece from an unused part of the waistband (sorry there are no pics)

ok, on to sewing…

For a more detailed description of how to sew the side seams and waistband of the top check out my previous post Super quick and easy up-cycled toddler tracksuit – PART 2 Tracksuit Top.  Other wise…

Use your overlocker to secure the armholes and lower edge and sew the side seams - it should look like this.

Pin the binding to the armholes as shown and then overlock around ensuring that the seam ends up on the inside. Then topstitch the seam so that the overlocked bit stays neatly tucked away (have a look at the finish in the next pic)

Attach the waistband using your overlocker, making sure that you stretch it evenly as you attach it to the body of the top

Ok now on to the pants, for more detailed instructions on inserting the waist elastic check out my previous post Super quick and easy up-cycled toddler tracksuit – PART 1 Tracksuit Pants

Overlock the two pants pieces together down the front and back seams to the crotch mark

Next attach the crotch piece to one side lining up the crotch mark with the seam. Then sew from ankle to ankle sewing the inner leg seams and attaching the other half of the crotch piece to the other side as shown in the picture.

Insert elastic at the waistband and your done

So there you have it – Ninja tracksuit.

At this point I am happy to concede that this is a fairly masculine tracksuit and that my daughter would be better served by wearing something a little prettier, but I still think it is super cute and couldn’t resist posting a few more pics.

Ninja Tracksuit

Full length view

The Katrina's soaker pattern - all sewn up

OK, so I understand that this post is going to seem a little funny to those of you that know that I am a reusable cloth nappy manufacturer (check out my Reusable Nappies). However, as well as a reusable cloth nappy manufacturer I think it would be safe to say that I am a reusable cloth nappy enthusiast, and as such can’t help but try everything new on the market, and everything old for that matter, to see how it works.

At the moment, I am feeling a little nostalgic and am going through a phase of using good old terry cloth squares, you know, the ones our mums used on us. I think they look just adorable, and my daughter doesn’t seem to mind the bubble but look

I am yet to trial the perfect cover for over the top of that cute bubble butt and the Katrina’s soaker pattern seem’s a popular one with the online nappy/diaper sewing community so I thought I would give it a go.

How to whip one up (and as promised in the title ‘Quick Sew Soaker Pattern’ it really is quick to sew – took me around 15 mins):

Bits and bobs you will need to make your nappy cover/soaker

Things you will need

• The pattern and instructions. Download the pattern from Katrina’s blog Here
• Some heavy-ish fleece  (I used a receiving blanket we no longer use)
• Scissors, Sewing machine/overlocker, thread,  pen, pins etc

Cut pattern pieces for fleece reusable nappy/diaper cover

First up, download and print the pattern. Cut it out and then cut out your pieces. (I chose to add the double layer to the wet zone just for extra protection)

Katrina's Quick Sew Soaker pattern - finished Nappy/Diaper cover

Next, sew it all up.  I am not going to go into details here as Katrina includes some great instructions with lots of pictures on her blog that make it really easy.

And there you have it one soaker ready to go

What I thought of this Nappy Cover/Soaker…

Well, first of all I love how soft and comfortable a fleece soaker is/looks, no tight elastic bits digging in anywhere.

Fleece is breathable and absorbs many times it weight in moisture before feeling wet to the touch, this combined with the comfort factor make it a popular choice for overnight nappies (which is why I was having a go at this one)

Fleece is not waterproof though, it is water resistant (like wool), but so long as you don’t let your little ones nappy get to sodden, it should be more than enough protection (although I would opt for a more fail safe cover for long car journeys or extended trips out of the house, just a piece of mind thing).

This soaker pattern was fabulously easy to make and I am sure I could get three (including the double layer for the wet zone) from the one big-ish receiving blanket. It also looks lovely – so cute and cuddly.

As far as fit goes, I made a medium for my little one, she is 9.5kg and around 75cm tall and I think it would fit perfectly over a fitted style nappy. Over the terry flats though is is a bit small and a struggle to get on. I would make a large but I fear that the waist and leg cuffs would be too big (and I think this might cause leaking)

The problem is nappy to baby ratio!

The combination of a terry cloth nappy and a skinny leg baby just doesn’t fit quite right with the Katrina soaker pattern

I think alterations could be made to make it work, let me think on that, this may not be the last you hear about fleece nappy covers.

This is the finished product in action

Here is the second part in  the Super quick and easy up-cycled toddler tracksuit

PART 2 The Tracksuit top. Click here to view PART 1 – The Tracksuit pants

Ok, so this is what I started with:

A much loved tracksuit top once belonging to my husband

And we have printed and cut out the pattern, free to download  here , and used the sleeves to create our size one toddler traksuit pants.

Cut the body of the pattern from the top as shown, keep the neck portion of the original top intact and joined at the shoulder seams)

Cut the sleeve from the main body of the top(the waistband of the top forms the cuff)

The pattern piece in the free pattern download should be lined up evenly with the cuff (I was using a makeshift pattern here)

Cut the second sleeve as close as possible to the first

Cut the remainder of the waistband off along the seam.

The cut pieces for the tracksuit top

OK, so on to sewing. These instructions are written as though you have an overlocker, if you don’t you will just need to sew this with your sewing machine as you would any other stretch fabric.

Open out your pattern pieces and overlock the shoulder seams

Open out the sleeve pieces and the body pieces of the top as shown. Line up the shoulder seam and overlock the sleeve to the main body of the top. Repeat for other shoulder seam.

 

 

 

 

Overlock the underarm and side seam

Now arrange the top as though it were inside out , as shown in the photo, and overlock the underarm seam from the wrist to the lower hem of the top.

 

 

 

 

Open out the band that you cut from the lower edge of the original top

Next, open out the band that you cut from the lower edge of the original top. this should be just shorter than the distance around the bottom of the size one top (if not trim a little bit off)

Overlock the short edges together with the right sides facing one another.

 

 

Fold the band back up with the seam inside

Now fold the band back up with the seam that you just created on the inside, hidden from view.

 

 

 

 

Pin and overlock the band to the size one top

The last thing to do is to pin the band that you just created evenly around the lower edge of the size one tracksuit top.

Overlock the band to the top (on the inside) stretching the band as you go.

 

 

Finished top

Now your done – One super cute tracksuit top to match the pants,

and…

all for the grand price of about 20cents (for elastic and thread)

This is the finished product in action

I was on my way to my workroom this afternoon to get started on the tutorial pictures for a lovely little size one hoodie (which I will get around to so stay tuned), when my husbands bag of clothes for charity caught my eye.

I had a bit of a rummage and found a tracksuit top that I just couldn’t resist doing a conversion on. I also found a few other pieces that will probably feature in future posts (so much for making more space in our appartment).

I had a play around and it turned out really well so I thought I would share.  This is a fun and super easy project – the finished product looks much fancier than the sewing involved.

Although this is about a 15 min project if you sew a lot, and around 30 min if you don’t, It turns out that it takes a lot longer than that to explain (or maybe I am just a bit wordy) So I have broken this down into 2 parts. Part one is the tracksuit pants.

Ok, so this is what I started with:

A much loved tracksuit top once belonging to my husband

The thing that is make or break on this project is the neckline of the original top. If it is not something similar to this one it will probably work out too big for your little ones head, so choose your top wisely. This was a (generous) medium size.

Other things you will need:

• The pattern (you can download it in pdf format from here)
• A piece of elastic the correct length for your little  ones waist
• Matching sewing machine thread(or something that will be inconspicuous anyway:) and
• All the other normal stuff – sewing machine, over locker (could do without this but it is much easier with it) scissors pins etc.

Cut the pants pattern piece from the sleeves of the top (the wrists of the top form the ankles of the pants)

Repeat for the other leg of the pants

Cut pattern pieces for pants

OK, so on to sewing. These instructions are written as though you have an overlocker, if you don’t you will just need to sew this with your sewing machine as you would any other stretch fabric.

Overlock the inner leg seam crotch to ankle

To make the pants. Turn the pieces inside out and overlock the inner leg seam from the crotch to the ankle as shown in the pic (I left the wristbands of the top intact so I only needed to sew down to where I started cutting). Repeat for both legs.

 

 

 

Slide one leg inside the other and then overlock the crotch seam

Then turn one leg in the right way and then slide it into the other leg so that the right sides are together and the crotch seam lines up, as shown in the picture. These pants are the same front to back so you don’t need to worry about which side is the front.

Now overlock the seam all the way around.

 

 

Finish the top raw edge

Next, turn turn the pants inside out and finish the  top raw edge.

 

 

 

 

Create an elastic casing

Create a casing for the elastic by folding the waist over about 3cm and sewing all the way around, close to the edge. (I do this with a double needle on my sewing machine, it gives a really great finish) Remember to leave a gap to insert your elastic.

 

 

 

Super cute tracksuit pants

Next, thread your elastic through the casing you have created and then sew the ends of the elastic together. Then sew the space in the casing closed.

Now your done – One pair of super cute tracksuit pants that even have room for a cloth nappy if you need it.

 

and…

Stay tuned for PART 2 of this post – Cutting and sewing the top.

Sew 4 Bub is a blog dedicated to all the things I want to sew for my bub.

I have been sewing since I was six years old (I had some very well dressed teddies) and I love to sew, but for the most part when it comes to adult clothes it costs almost as much to buy the fabrics and notions to make something as it would to just buy the item. For baby clothes this is not the case, they take such a tiny amount of fabric. So having a baby has been my perfect excuse to get the sewing machine out again.

For the most part I have been focusing on sewing nappies for my business Hatchlings Cloth Nappies but now our little one has finally learnt to sleep, I have some time to sew all the other things I have been dreaming up.

So…

Sew 4  Bub is where I will be coming to show pics of the cute stuff I make, to post all the patterns I use to make things and to post tutorials so that everyone else can make lovely things too!